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Escort Efi XR to FRST guide [article by Ragtop] 
Contents:
Intro Firstly. These notes are for converting an Efi XR3i to run a Fiesta Turbo Engine & management. If you plan to fit Efi to a S2, then you must fit an Efi XR loom first , and ignore any mention of required S2 bits, as you'll already have them (i.e. Fan/Rad/Header tank) If you plan to fit a FRST to an XR2i, then only use the wiring pin changes, as you'll be using Fessy Turbo bits, instead of ERST bits (i.e. Fan/Rad/Head tank). For more information, please visit the fiesta engine swaps page.
Please note that any reference made to an 'XR' is regarding the Ford EEC IV Efi equipped model. S2 owners - you will need... To run Efi, you must have the Efi fuel tank, and full loom. If you are converting from a S2, then you will have to change the tank as the Efi one has an internal pump, whilst the S2 doesn't. Fitting just the engine bay bit of the loom won't work, as the full loom includes the wiring for the afore mentioned pump, and also the fuel cut-off/inertia switch (required cuz it's an electric pump that could squirt fuel everywhere in an accident). You won't loose any of the functionality of the S2 by changing to an Efi XR loom, in fact, you might gain, as the Efi models were the last Mk4's, so have all the electrics as standard. At this point it is also worth mentioning the clocks. Efi (all Ford EEC IV) uses a wasted spark ignition. This uses two separate coils (a coil pack) each connected in series to two of the spark plugs. 
The way this system works is that if cyl 1 is firing on compression, cyl 3 will also fire, but as it's on it's exhaust stroke, the spark is 'wasted'. This also means that unlike a normal coil that will energise 'once' for every spark, the coil pack, if measuring only one coil, would only spark half as often. With the S2 rev counter which is designed to take one feed per combustion, the rev counter may read half; to fix this, fit an EFi rev counter eg one from the EFi XR3i.Items required [from an FRST]
Unless you are converting an S2, you need...
Converting.... The BC and some iB5 gearboxes are completely interchangeable - see the transmission page for more info. With the old XR lump removed, and the new FRST one installed (complete with inlet), you now need to... [radiator & intercooler] All the mounting points for the S2 rad & IC are already on your car, so it's a simple swap over. No drilling, bending, or cutting is required. If you've acquired the rad & IC separately and are unsure how it goes together, the IC bolts onto the right hand side of the radiator, it doesn't have it's own mounting points on the car. Bolt them together before fitting the whole assembly into the car. [header tank] At this point you'll have noticed that the header tank is on the wrong side, hence the need for a S2 one. (XR = right, S2 = left) You will probably have an air box on the left hand side of the XR, unless you've fitted a cone. Remove this. The holes for the header were already in the left hand side on my car. I think they're the same holes that the air box used (I had a K&N 57i for a couple of years now, so can't remember). Screw the header tank in place, using the same self tapper's that held the XR one in. [turbo oil feed] The FRST feed comes from the back of the engine next to the oil filter, and comes over the cam belt cover on the left. This won't fit the T3, as the whole turbo assembly is now mounted over to the middle, as opposed to the T2 which is on the left. All you need to do is unscrew the FRST pipe off the block and replace it with an ERST item. This pipe comes round the back of the engine on the right, to the top of the T3. Note: Both ends have the same thread, so it can go on either way, BUT the 90deg bends at each end of the braided hose are different lengths (albeit by only ¼inch or so) I fitted the longer end (unknowingly) on the Turbo, and didn't find out it was the wrong way (if there is one) until I tried fitting a stainless heat shield!!! A quick reversal of the hose sorted it out tho. [turbo oil return] The FRST's T2 uses a full metal pipe from the turbo, to the block. It has a thread at each end and is screwed on. The ERST's T3 uses a larger bore rubber pipe and is a push-on fit with low-duty clips. On the block side. The fezzy has a brass thread protruding from the block. The Escort has a bit of metal pipe sticking out. I've seen some right dodgy looking conversions for this, done by welding the bottom of the FRST pipe to the metal pipe off the T3!!! There is a major problem with doing this tho, and that's the bore size. The T2 has quite a small bore compared to the T3, and using the smaller bore on the larger turbo will cause a bottle neck for the returning oil. The answer is quite simple, and not nearly so barbaric: both inserts are interference fit items, and can be removed from the block, contrary to popular belief. It will require some gentle persuasion, but persist and it'll come loose. Ford still stock the fitment for the ERST, and it's actually got the same part number as a bit by the radiator, used to join two pipes!!! Gently, because otherwise it'll bend, tap the ERST insert into the block. I suggest using a bit of wood between the pipe and the hammer as it's only thin and can fold round at the end. Also, there is a ridge halfway down to stop it going in too far. Too much hammering can compress this too, so be careful. Once in, the T3 will pipe up the same as any other S2. [fitting the T3] Fit the manifold complete with turbo, elbow, and actuator. Fitting the oil return pipe can be awkward. You need to push it over the turbo's pipe first, then slide it over the block end afterwards. You could try doing this whilst the manifold is still loose, as it's a tight fit, and they tend to split along the seam if bent too far (this has happened to me twice, and on both occasions the split could not be seen with the pipe in situ ) [exhaust system] Any S2 system, be it Ford or aftermarket, will fit a Mk4 Escort. The differences are in the hangers. There are about 5 hanger points on the shell, but not all of them are always utilised by the current system. I found that I had an extra hanger at the back, but was missing one from the front (just below the bulkhead) compared to the RS Magnex. You could fit the system without the front bracket, but I think it would have put extra weight and strain on the down pipe, as the next hanger was halfway down the car. I got my local garage to weld a bracket up front for a tenner. It's also worth noting that I had a 3inch Magnex system & manifold on my XR, and sold them for a tenner more than I paid for a secondhand 4inch RS Magnex system. So don't go chucking ALL the old XR stuff out. ;) [charge carrier] The Fiesta charge carrier will fit the Escort Samco, but is slightly too long where it slides into the top boost hose. It sounds brutal, but you have to hacksaw off the last 2.5-3 inches to get a perfect fit. To find how much you need to remove, fit the top boost pipe to the IC and hold the charge carrier in it's place across the cam cover. You'll see how the charge carrier goes past the 'swollen' part of the hose. It's only this bit that needs removing. Leave the pipe long enuf to completely fill the afore mentioned 'swollen' bit of pipe. Don't forget to clean up the cut off end, and remove/washout all the swarf, otherwise it'll get sucked into the engine at startup. [pipe work] The XR pipes (induction/coolant) will not fit a turbo install, so all new ones will be needed. I found out that Ford don't actually stock/make some of these original S2 pipes, so bought a set of Samco's for an S2 (both air/water). With the header tank now on the correct side, and the rad and turbo installed, you can install all the pipe work. Start with the coolant hoses as they are lower down in the bay, then move on to the boost. [re-wiring] Re-connect the engine loom to the engine. All but two plugs will reach/fit. The ones that don't are:- ISCV (Idle Speed Control Valve) – On the XR this was mounted on the inner wing, behind the air box. On the FRST it's in the side of the inlet/throttle housing. The plug off the XR does fit, as the actual ISCV is identical, but won't reach over to the new position. You need to lengthen the wire by approx 6-8 inches. It's only a low current, two wire plug, so something like speaker cable would suffice (I used autoleads cable of a similar thickness to the original), and I suggest that the joins are soldered and heat shrunk, as the vibration and heat generated under the bonnet will soon deteriorate a crimp or bullet. And don't even think about using scotchlocks!!! We are talking about the engine management.. delicate electronics that won't appreciate 12v being poked up the wrong wire!!! Be careful to keep the polarity of the wires. If your engine has a poor idle (or refuses to idle from cold), this wiring should be the first to be checked. Fan – as mentioned above, the XR fan is on the back of the rad, and as the turbo item is mounted on the front, the wire doesn't reach. Also the connector is different to the one on the S2 fan wires. Trace the fan loom wire back to where it splits from the main loom (about 10 inches back, on the front/lower/right hand side). Cut the loom near the split, making sure to leave enuf protruding wire to get a grip on when soldering. The fan draws a substantial amount of current so decent high current cable is required. Using normal speaker cable or similar will result in a fire!! I used some leftover subwoofer cable for mine (very big stuff), but anything with a rating of 40A or more (the circuit draws 30A continuous and slightly more on startup) will be ok, as long as your join work is good - crimps will not handle the current and will overheat. Solder on a length, about 50/60cm's long, to the cut-off loom, and route it around the front bottom right of the rad. I suggest you measure out enough wire so that you can place the new cable alongside the loom (between the headlights), using the loom clips to keep it neat. As the plugs are different you'll need a new pair. I bought a simple two way connector pack from Halfords. The pack comes with a male & female plug/socket and appropriate crimps, and only cost a couple of quid. The two contacts (spades) in each half are opposed to each other, so it can only go on one way. Sort of a 'T' shape. The reason for stating to use the male & female connectors is. If the connector were to come loose whilst the fan was operating, it could short (to earth) if a unsheathed male connector were used on the loom side, causing a huge meltdown. Chop off the S2 fan plug and attach the 'male' connector in it's place. Attach the female end to the new bit of wire from the loom, and connect the two half's together. (The contacts in these plugs can be removed once inserted, so if (like me) you wire it the wrong way round, and get a lovely warm blast standing 6 feet 'infront' of the car, it's easy to swap them round)! There was one more difference/problem on my car. The water temp sensor on the thermostat/swirl housing. My original XR loom plug had been removed and replaced with spades before I got it. These spades did not fit the FRST temp sensor which has round pins, so a trip to the scrappy was called for to rip one off an XR2i (or FRST if you can find one). This may not be the case on your car, but was worth pointing out. NOTE:- Please be careful when re-wiring. ESPECIALLY the fan. A fire could easily start by using insufficient, low current or low quality wire..!! I have a degree in Electronics and many years experience with auto electrics, so I know my cabling is sufficient.. If in doubt ASK..!! You have been warned. :( PS- I know that sounds really big headed, but it's not meant to sound that way. I just can't stress enuf how import this is, and don't know how else to say it. I do apologise. [ECU pin changes - OFAC ECU only] This is not a huge or difficult task, and is very simple if you take your time. A snapped off ECU pin will be a costly mistake. The Original ECU is mounted down in the center console, by your feet. The cover is held in place by two popper studs on each side that come loose with a sharp tug. The ECU its self just slides out, into the passenger footwell. You may have to loosen the carpet under the dash to give to enuf free cable to work on. The plug is held in with a 10mm bolt. The bolt doesn't come out of the plug, but pushes it off the ECU. Once it's separated, note the pin numbers moulded into the side of the ECU socket. I think they're marked "1-20" "21-40", etc, as the pins are split down the middle because of the 10mm bolt. Then used a permanent pen to mark the loom plug with the pin numbers for easy reference. You'll see a red strip across the middle of the plug top. This is an insert that holds the cables tight so the pins are not strained. Using a small flat blade screwdriver, gently 'encourage' the strip out, using the two access 'gaps' at each end. You might need to swap from one end to the other a couple of times for it to come out straight. Don't worry about all the wires falling out, as the pins are individually held in. Using the marks you made on the plug, count the pins very carefully before attempting to remove any. I can't stress enuf how much important it is to get this right FIRST TIME. Mistakes here are bad!!! The pins themselves are held in by a small tag, half way down their body. You will need a very small screwdriver for this (dare I say a small Allen key will work, but I'm not recommending it). Peer down the sides of the pin and you'll see the single tag poking out into the plug body. Gently poke and bend the tag back, towards the pin, so that the tag is flush with the body. Try not to bend it too far into the body, so to minimise the bending.. BE VERY CAREFUL.. The tags can snap off the pin if 'manipulated' too much. The pin would then not lock in, and would slide up when reconnected to the ECU. The pins you need to change are :
Once this is done, and it's all back together, you need to repeat the process on the EDIS module mounted in the engine bay, on the right inner wing. The only difference is that this plug is held on by a clip instead of a bolt. Remove Pin 2 (Blue/Yellow). I would NOT suggest cutting it off, but pulling it back and taping it back up the loom. Covering ALL of it, so it doesn't short. That's it. But double check, then check again before re-connecting the battery. ECU pin changes courtesy of Muffking, and his useful website XRturbo.co.uk. Odds 'n' sods [AMAL Valve] The AMAL valve is the only wiring not included on the XR loom. You could plumb the associated wiring in, along the loom, back to the ECU, but I personally didn't bother, as I heard it wasn't necessary. I still don't have one, and my car works fine. I'm not suggesting for a second that this is the correct thing to do. Ford didn't put one on for no reason, but it's your decision. You will need one specifically for the FRST. The ERST uses a 3 way AMAL, that returns pressure back to the metering unit, whilst the FRST utilizes a 2 way AMAL, which only 'blocks' the pressure. I found that with a standard actuator, and no AMAL, I could not get more than 5psi, so fitted a –31 actuator, which allows the boost to be set higher. [standard ECU Boost Limit] The FRST uses the readings from the MAP sensor to calculate the boost level. As standard (without a chip) the FRST runs at 7-8 psi, with a top limit of 10 psi. If this limit is exceeded WITHOUT the appropriate chip/re-map, then the ECU heavily retards the ignition, thinking there is a major problem. This is a very good safety backup feature, but won't be appreciated whilst cruising the high street on a Saturday night, as it'll sound like a tractor. To reset the ECU if this has occurred, turn off the ignition and leave off for a minute or so. Uprating the rest of the car Now that you have your Efi turbo sitting pretty, and hurling you down the queens highway, it's time to think about uprating the rest of the car to match your new found BHP. You'll be running around on XR brakes and suspension, which wasn't designed for 18psi of boost!!! I had already uprated mine, as I'm sure many of you have, but here's what I've done so far, to at least bring it up to RST spec, if not better.
I don't know if this is 'flimsy cabriolet' specific, but out of the above items, I found the strut brace made the most significant improvement to the handling. [gearbox] The ERST, XR, and FRST gearboxes are essentially the same, and will fit one another, but the ERST gearbox has a Limited Slip Differential installed. This 'locks' the front diff when wheelspin is detected on one wheel, and will help traction no end. I am still using my original XR box, and it's coping well with the power, but coming out of left hand bends with the power down is guaranteed to spin the inner wheel, all the way upto fifth in the wet!!! The ERST box is the ideal solution to this, but the XR box will fit, and suffice if fund's don't permit. Again, the transmission guide will help you choose an upgrade to your existing box. [cooling] I didn't fit an RST bonnet, or vents, thinking it would make the cab look more 'stealth'. But I've found out the hard way, that a turbo'd engine needs the vents, otherwise Ford wouldn't have put them on in the first place. I suffered with high engine temps, especially stopping after a run, and high ACT's (Air Charge Temp). I have now circum to vent's, and I'm currently having a set of Scooby 22B jobbies grafted into the bonnet. [intercooler] Or as it's commonly know in standard form, the 'interwarmer'. The original IC is barely adequate for the 7-8psi factory boost. Any increase in boost levels is drastically going to increase the temperature of the air going into the engine, as the small area of the intercooler cannot cool it down enuf. This temperature is called the "Air Charge Temperature" and it needs to be as low as possible. The FRST ECU actually retards the ignition when inlet air temp rises above 72°C, and it drastically cuts power, so is not good. Changing the IC at this early point, even if you plan to keep it down at 7-8psi, is a good idea. and there are many different options available, from simple bolt-on replacement versions (Pace), to huge ones that require the hacksaw to be bought out (GRS). There are many different options you can take, but I'm not going into that. I suggest you try the RS owner's club bulletin board for that argument. Personally I have gone for the 2wd Sapphire Cossie intercooler. Costs I'm always being asked "how much did it cost". It's not that easy to say, as I took about 4 months sourcing the bits before I started, then found I needed more as I went along. I've listed the parts & prices I paid below, but these are a rough guide, as you may well find them a lot cheaper. These costs do not include the engine rebuild, which I would suggest you have done before installing the new lump. From my costly experience's I would STRONGLY suggest you get it done.
Other Useful Information [actuator set-up] Unscrew to lower boost, screw up to increase. 1psi = ½ turn [injector options & fuel pump] The standard set up is good for about 160-170 brake. After this and you can start to starve the engine of fuel, as the pressure in the fuel rail wont be maintained. The upgrade for the standard FRST fuel pump, is a standard Escort Cosworth pump. It's a straight swap, but will require the fuel tank to be removed. I've done this myself, and even using a friends garage, having the car six feet up, it was still a nightmare job. Unfortunately, this must not be forgotten, as the pump is actually a weaker link than the injectors. The injectors cannot be swapped for cosworth items (yellows/dark greens/grays, etc) as they are the wrong impedance. The "beige" 701s are the next logical step, and rumors are about that Lancia Delta injectors work, but I don't know this for sure, and would suggest seeking professional advice if looking into this. [oil filter] Altho not yet personally tested, the sapphire cosworth oil filter is supposed to fit straight onto the FRST, but is larger. This can only help cool the oil further. The Zetec 16v oil filter is also larger but you should check clearance with the bulkhead before spending. That's it. I'm pretty sure I've covered all the area's required, but if you have any queries or questions, you will probably find me on the RSOCBB under the name "Ragtop". Happy chattering Luv Chrisie. :) [article by Ragtop]
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[links] Fiesta engine conversions guide A run-down of the various engines you can fit in your Fiesta to gain the best power. Information also applicable to Puma and Ka. Ford transmission guide Info on which gearboxes will handle your engine's power better, and what ratios you can find in them. Zetec tuning guide What you can do to gain power from your Zetec, right up to 200+bhp 2.0L tuning. Zetec turbo guide What you need to know if you want to turbo your zetec engine. |
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